Dinner out

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Those who know me know that I don’t like olives or cilantro. But there are also a few (a lot, my friend LKA would insist) other things I don’t like. First among these is celery. Let’s just say that regular celery is as unpleasant a prospect to me as the thought of vampire-enslaved zombie celery is to the highstrung cat Chester in the Bunnicula books.

While I will grudgingly dice a rib or two to make a mirepoix, I otherwise steer well clear of celery. And since discovering that Suzanne Goin, as revealed in her cookbook Sunday Suppers at Lucques, sometimes substitutes fennel for celery in a mirepoix, I have happily abandoned celery and its ribs all together.

Recently at a restaurant in Portland, the kind that only has two seatings a night and serves a six-course fixed menu, I was faced with an escarole salad that had celery in it. Maybe, I thought, escarole has some magical property that makes celery taste good.

It doesn’t.

So I ate the rest of the salad and left a neat pile of celery on the side of my plate. A perfectly logical course of action, except in the eyes of my fellow diners.

“You’re not eating your celery,” said G.

“I don’t like celery,” I said.

“How could you not like celery?” asked C.

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I’ve eaten my way from one end of the Ferry Building to the other on more than one occasion, but a few Sundays ago I got to do it for a good cause. CUESA, the organization that runs the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, was holding its annual Sunday Supper fundraiser, a cocktails-and-appetizers reception followed by a seated five-course dinner upstairs in the beautifully vaulted expanse of the second floor. My dream was to go to the dinner upstairs but that cost $200, compared to the relative bargain of the $75 reception ticket. Having already sprung this year for a $200 dinner ticket, I opted for the reception (okay, I couldn’t find anyone else willing to spring for the dinner, and I had a taker for the reception. Wiser, thriftier heads prevailed). Then I spent the whole weekend nursing a cold and was happy I hadn’t paid $200 for a dinner I didn’t feel well enough to attend.

But $75 is nothing to sneeze at, either, so I loaded up on the nondrowsy cold medicine and trotted down to the Ferry Building to meet my friend M.

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On the coldest Memorial Day weekend in Northern California history, I went to an outdoor dinner in Nicasio at Devil’s Gulch Ranch. Outdoor dinners, particularly ones in the middle of a vineyard, are supposed to be warm and summery affairs. Skinny-strapped dresses, bare legs and shoulders, heels (but not spiky ones that might sink into vineyard soil and leave you stuck), a floppy hat and some movie star–size sunglasses, and maybe, if you’re feeling particularly cautious, a floaty, gauzey scarf for a cover-up. That’s what I had in mind (in addition to delicious food and a beautiful setting) when I bought the $200 tickets for the event. The reality was more like this.

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It was freezing. In classic Norcal fashion, we showed up in sunshine and spent the first hour keeping an anxious eye on the fog bank looming on the horizon. Take a sip of wine, nibble on halibut ceviche, glance to the west, shiver, sip, repeat.

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